"Me?" I responded to her in a startled voice, "I'm nobody."
We were in a quaint coffee shop amongst world ranked athletes, record holders and endurance specialists all gathered in Silverton, Colorado in the days leading up to the Hardrock 100.
What is the Hardrock 100? Quite simply, it's an unbelievable race. Very briefly, it's a one hundred mile endurance race, mostly on trails up and down in Colorado's San Juan mountains. The course exceeds 12,000 feet in elevation thirteen times with the high point being Handies peak at 14,048 feet and the lowest elevation being in Ouray at 7,796 feet. Total elevation gain in the race is 33,992 feet with the same amount of descent. So, for comparison sake, the race exceeds starting at sea level and summiting Mount Everest (elevation 29,029') and returning back to sea level. So, what's the reward? It's not money since there is no purse. Runners finish the race by kissing a huge stone at the finish and I assume the true prize is the satisfaction of completing such a challenge. Oh, and by the way, runners have 48 hours to complete the course. Many label the race the toughest 100 miler in America and I was fortunate enough to have been invited down to "hang out" the week of the race.
A wet spring had the high mountains still harboring piles of snow while slopes were carpeted in lush green growth. On arrival in Silverton, a stalled storm system created gray skies and rain. Tents were pitched just across the river from town and the first night I listened to moisture pattering on my tent's rain fly. Early Tuesday morning, I made a pitiful cup of coffee over a scant backpacking stove and prior to launching on an adventure, a real cup was purchased at the only coffee shop in town where I was introduced to trail runners of all varieties. Scientists, doctors, engineers, a vagrant living out of his Toyota truck for 3 years, teachers, small business owners, professionally sponsored athletes, former record holders, current record holders...the list went on and on. But, the crazy common denominator was all were super pleasant, down to earth and easy to be around.
We set off for the day's adventure that included scouting a section of the Hardrock 100 course. During the ascent, I was told of the mystical blue color of Ice Lake and the artistry of Island Lake.
This picture from the internet was what I expected of Ice Lake.....and a similar expectation was envisioned of Island Lake
Instead, this was our discovery. Ice Lake was first visited and found to be completely frozen and we navigated over to Island Lake and found it also frozen. Although it was almost mid-July, the high country was still dealing with the previous harsh winter and cool spring. We continued on our trek with the final push to reach Grant Swamp Pass. Soon, we were easily passed by a world ranked athlete who was closely followed by his girlfriend that we used as a pacer.
Wind was raging while rain and sleet pelted us and upon reaching the pass, course markers could not be found. I went up the trail seeking markers and looked back to our small party. They were miniature in the raw vastness of the scenery where a gusty updraft from our side of the pass was battling and peeling back thick clouds trying to crest over us from the other basin.
The couple had a destination and assumed the trail continued directly below them and I marveled while they dropped off into the steep abyss and were promptly swallowed by clouds. We turned and had a slippery trip back to the trail head to return to camp.
Soggy tents and gear were a poor reception party, so we set off to town for beer in dry and warm establishments. Later, tents were unzipped for another hypnotic night of rain dancing on the fabric.
Wednesday's adventure? Bear Creek trail that had a 7.1 mile ascent with a vertical gain of 5,000 feet that included sections of the trail being carved into rock from old timers seeking their fortunes in mine shafts. After standing on top of Engineer's Pass with my thighs begging for mercy and lungs wondering where all the oxygen went, we turned and ran back...it was nice to feel legs freewheeling instead of the constant grind of hiking.
Rehydrating at a brewery in Ouray, I met the popular server Mr. Grumpy Pants. He spoke few words and used a stick to tap on "Cash Only" that was scribbled with chalk on a blackboard that hung behind him. Further, because of supply issues and a problem with a tap, the choices were limited to 3 types of beers. When quizzed by customers which was good, he flatly stated as if insulted, "All of 'em."
Back in Silverton, entertainment included a free movie, "Run Free." It was an interesting documentary on Caballo Blanco, a character in the NY Times best seller Born To Run, and his love for running, his nurturing of a community of Tarahumara Indians in Mexico and his free spirit life.
To no surprise, another night was spent in a damp tent with Thursday's adventure to summit Engineer Mountain. (Not related to Engineer Pass.)
The trail approaching the mountain was friendly and the climb was steep with my fingers providing death grips on rocks while toes cramped inside running shoes were trying to do the same. A run back to the car and returning to Silverton resulted in another evening movie about Nolan's 14, a non sanctioned event challenging participants to summit fourteen 14'ers in 60 hours, all on foot. It's ridiculous and hard to even imagine being possible.
A steady downpour had us barhopping the evening away, only to return to, you guessed it, soggy, tents.
Alarms went of Friday morning as we emerged from our damp sleeping quarters and headed into town for the official start of the Hardrock 100. The school buzzed with activity and quickly, runners lined up for the 6 o'clock start and they set out for their adventure of 100 miles in the rugged mountains with visions of kissing the rock at the finish line. I watched the group leave town, unable to imagine how their legs, lungs, hearts and minds were about to suffer.
I also left town to return home, driving in fresh snow on top of Red Mountain Pass. I periodically checked on the race. First place finished in a new course record time of 23:28:10 while the final official finisher literally had only one second to spare with his finishing time of 47:59:59. (Three others completed the course, but surpassed the 48 hour cut-off time. I still congratulate their accomplishment.)
Thanks Chris for the invite. Despite the weather, it was still an incredibly memorable week!
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